Millet


 EXCURSION NOTEBOOK 
Bouldering in Val Ferret
The Vallée Blanche, Mont Blanc massif, by Lionel Pernollet
Mt Peney by Mathieu Bouyoud
Millet USA Website > EXCURSION NOTEBOOK > Bouldering in Val Ferret

Saleinaz: Physical, no exit, 7c

 


Bouldering in Val Ferret (Switzerland):

 

For lovers of giant stones and climbing moves who are keen to escape serious summer heat, the area round Martigny in the Lower Valais, Switzerland, is packed with possibilities… Every year, new sectors of variable size are discovered, and brushed off by tireless boulderers.

The splendid Val Ferret, which runs from Italy to Switzerland along the foot of the south-facing slopes of the Mont Blanc massifs and the Trient Glacier have long attracted clamberers of every ilk.

In the Swiss part of this bucolic belt, the glaciers have left in their wake many boulders – the fruits left when the crystalline giants all around shed their skins.

 

 

 

Further reading:

- Article (in French): Val Ferret by Laurent de Senarclens, Grimper, no.79/July 2004

Routebook: Escalades en Bas-Valais Best of. By François Roduit, published by Stone free, 2003

IGN maps: (1:25000) 1345 Orsières and 1365 Gd St Bernar

A lire et consulter sur le sujet :

 

- Article : Val Ferret de Laurent de Senarclens, Grimper no79/juillet 2004

- Topo : Escalades en Bas-Valais Best of. De François Roduit,

éd.Stone free, 2003

- Cartes au 1 :25000 : 1345 Orsières et 1365 Gd St Bernard

 

Presentation of sites and routes:

 

Since about halfway through the far-off last century, alpinists in La Fouly have been in the habit of training on a great gneiss boulder with an evocative profile: la Pierre du Loup (“the wolf stone”). And they decorated its muzzle with some hardware, back in the days when aid climbing was king… Now that bouldering is in favour, the rocky creature is a must-visit in the valley.

 

Photos : La Pierre du Loup : peaceful climb under the sharp-edged gaze of the Tour Noir.
Here, warming up on a 6b that tickles the beast’s muzzle.

 

1 - L’œil de l’aigle 7a+. 2 - Songe érotique d’une nuit d’été (seated start) 7c+. 3- Arête Gallay (seated) 6c+. 4- No name 6b. 5- No name 6a… and several other passages which are fairly cool but also quite high and technical.

 

As if drawn by their mineral counterparts, wolves made a comeback in the valley in the mid-1990s, a period when several keen local guides – including Philippe Caron alias “Kidet”, his brother Claude and J-P Besse – found a nice little chaotic family of boulders concealed in the forest of Saleinaz. While the living packs gave local flocks of sheep the shivers, the latter bunch proceeded to systematically brush down several monoliths of rugged granite – whose style had hitherto been cramped by their mossy overcoats – and thus created what has become the leading site in the valley.

 

Photos : Saleinaz : Zeste Zen 7c+ (8a assis), one of the finest creations on the site

1- Memoriam of Joshua (arete) 6b. 2- Starting bloc (seated start) 7b. 3- Coquine slab 3a.  4- Arete 6a. 5- Mur de la verticale 6a+. 6- Wall/top-out. 6a. 7- La dülf. du fou 5c. 8- Serre la proue 6a. 9- Raplapla (seated) 6c. 10- L’enclume (seated) 7b. 11- route not yet climbed. 12- La dalle à Nini 6b. 13- Rêverie solitaire seated/7b standing/6c. 14a - Physical, no exit 7c. 14b - Physical, no exit 7a+. 15 - Egotric 6b+. 16 - Trèfle à 6 6a. 17 - Petit toit 6a. 18 - Wall 5a. 19 -Jump morpho. 7c/8a. 20 -A boulet 6a+. 21 -Oktebel 6a+ 22 - Gainage lymphatique (seated) 6c. 23 - Sans nom (seated) 6a+. 24 - Sans nom 5c. 25 - Rebrosse poil 7b. 26 - Bilbo 6b+. 27 - Zeste Zen 7c+/standing 8a/seated. 27b - Des roses en hiver 8b. 28 - Power lard 7b (seated). 29 - Toit 6c. 30 - Arête 5a. 31 - Rasoir jetable 6b. 32 - After shave 7a. 33/34 - No name 6a. 35 - La boule 7a. 36 - Orgasmol 7a. 37 - Route not climbed yet. 38 - Blocfield 4c. 39 - Jean la nouille 6a+. 40 - Anne-France 5a. 41 - Promenade à plat 6c. 42 - No name (seatzed) 6c. 43 - La belle au bois dormant 6a. 44 -20 ans 6b+. 45 - Oktemoche 6c. 46 - Raie Manta 7c. 47 - Gnaque petit 6c. 48 - Klimt 6c.

 

And the spotter’s Nini, of course… J-P keeps up his tempo and adds a few dozen boulders of all levels, and a handful of nice routes bordering the village of Issert. Swinging by this last collection of rocks is a good way to wrap up a day’s climbing, before going to sample some dried meat and and a heady local speciality… and then returning, next time out, to the sparkling sensations of the plain.

 

Photos : Saleinaz, Arthur on Dalle à Nini, 6b, with spotter

 

1- L’arête 6c.  2-Flower Power 7a (a must).  3-Pilier 6b. 4- Traverse from left to right 7a+ 5-Zump qui peut 6c. 6-La belle d’Issert (traverse from l. to r.) 7b

 

 

 

Other boulders – of granite, gneiss and schistous – are dotted practically all over the area.

 

Here, an offbeat glimpse of a session on the formidable Les Trappistes boulder downstream of Val Ferret, not far from Martigny…

 

Watch this space, and enjoy your climbing!

 

Press US     Subsidiary US
© Millet - All rights reserved     Legal Notice Evolutive-Business
Lafuma-boutique.com  |  Oxbowshop.com  |  Groupe Lafuma  |  Lafuma  |  Lechameau  |  Oxbow  |  EiderShop  |  Veste Randonnée Lafuma  |  Tee Shirt Oxbow