Digging deep into his memories, his father recalled an area of Mont Peney: its lower half offered more or less what Mathieu was after, with a very tasty rock overhang. Despite the presence of water seepages, the tufas weren't yet fully formed... but there could be no waiting – pools of water would take their place.

Despite a few doubts, Mathieu quickly went to work: he opened up an aided route from the bottom, following the technical advice of his father, a long-time regular in these parts.

He gleaned a few tips from Gaël B. from Les Chaux, and went about opening up new routes at a ravenous tempo, despite snow and rain. Every line he picked out was rapidly named and equipped for fear that someone else would beat him to it; and finally he free-climbed them.

The result? Twenty routes rated 6b to 8a+, and a guide kindly provided free of charge by Mathieu.

>>> Download the guide in .pdf (Size: 183 Ko)