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| EXCURSION NOTEBOOK  |
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The Vallée Blanche, Massif du Mont-Blanc
by Lionel Pernollet
Off-piste / glacier skiing.
The descent of the Vallée Blanche was first performed in February 1903 by Dr Michel Payot; the famous guides Ravanel “Le Rouge” Joseph and Joseph Simond; and the Chamonix residents René Payot, J. Couttet and Henri Devouassoud.
The start of this great classic of off-piste glacier skiing is the station of the prestigious Aiguille du Midi cable car (altitude: 3842m). The 24km route journeys through consistently stunning scenery – including Mont Blanc, Tacul, Pointe Lachenal, Grand Capucin, Requin, Jorasses, Grépons, Moine, Drus… a cast of summits that provide the setting for your descent.
Granted, on some March weekends, this magnificent descent is more like an motorway. But you still have a wide choice of routes: Classique, Vraie Vallée, Envers, Petit Envers – and, for braver skiers, a few ski-hiking variants and even an overnighter at the Refuge des Cosmiques, from where you can start your descent before the first cable-car of the day arrives.
This variety and the vastness of the Massif mean each skier can choose the route best suited to their level and the conditions, to ensure their descent is a memorable experience. You'll go home buzzing with emotions and images and dreams about future ascents.
The Vallée Blanche descent may seem straightforward, but it's still a high-mountain route that demands a number of precautions. It is for experienced, responsible skiers well versed in unmarked, off-piste, glacier skiing: they must be competent in self-rescue from crevasses, and in orienteering, and understand avalanche risks. For occasional skiers, it is often advisable to hire a High-Mountain Guide in order to make the most of your excursion.
Map: IGN 3630 OT
Access: Chamonix
Start point: Aiguille du Midi cable-car station
Vertical drop: 2,000m or 2,800m, depending on snow coverage
Orientation: South-east, then north
Duration: 3-5hrs of actual skiing, but in general, allow a full day for contemplation and to enjoy the panoramic views, with a picnic or a stop at the Refuge du Requin (catering available).
Difficulty: Average but Alpine skier (SMA) to very good Alpine skier (TBSA) levels, depending on route and conditions (French ski school level 3 (minimum)), i.e. comfortable on red runs.
Best period: December to May.
Route:
Start: Aiguille du Midi cable-car station.
From the summit, climb down the east arete: it's equipped with safety ropes in winter, but at other times this short section requires mountaineering gear and expertise. Put on your skis on a flat spot, and loop round to the right, down to the foot of the south face of the Aiguille du Midi. Take the wide, very gentle slopes towards Col du Gros Rognon (this pass provides a natural pylon for the Vallée Blanche gondola lift). Continue your descent southwards, below the north-east side of Mont Blanc du Tacul, into a broad bowl.
At around 3000m, traverse leftward a long crevasse-dotted flank, which brings you close to the Petit Rognon. You then emerge at the top of the seracs of Le Géant (stay well to the left: big crevasses on the right). Descend as best you can, on the left bank, through a maze of crevasses, passing under the Refuge du Requin (high exposure to serac falls).
On the right-hand side, you reach a large flat area, the Salle à Manger. Cross it to reach the right bank of the glacier; take a central line down the final, fairly flat section of Le Tacul Glacier, as far as the confluence with the Leschaux Glacier. Continue on the Mer de Glace, keeping a left-hand line. Then pass under the Montenvers gondola-lift station (this connects with the Montenvers Train – handy if there's not enough snow to ski to Chamonix, or if fatigue strikes prematurely). Continue along the terminal tongue of the Mer de Glace. Then, at roughly 1600m altitude, leave the glacier on the left.
Then, on foot, climb up the Passage des Mottets (15-20mins) to the refreshments stand of the same name.
After a copious meal, back on with the skis and take the forest trail that winds through the forest towards Chamonix (beware of avalanches in the Ortaz La Fiaz couloirs, especially on spring afternoons). After crossing the Montenvers railway line, take Les Planards (a blue run) as far as Chamonix.
Variants:
There are many variants on the traditional Vallée Blanche route: Rognon, Petit and Grand Envers du Plan, Vraie Vallée Blanche, etc.
Advice:
The section of Glacier du Géant seracs should be approached with great caution: it is highly popular and looks more like a mogul run, which can create a false sense of security (there's a formation of crevasses behind the moguls).
Rope up before climbing down the arete: doing so is not a luxury. Likewise, crampons are recommended, especially for first-timers.
Use elastic straps or tape to tie your poles to your skis in order to climb down the arete: you will be more comfortable, and thus avoid the risk of losing them on the north face.
Gear:
Ski gear with for each participant: harness and ARVA.
For the group: rope, shovel, probe, map, compass, crampons, ice axe, pulley gear (jammers, self-jamming handle, ice screws, etc.).
Millet gear used by Lionel Pernollet:
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